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I had written in my notes that I needed to write an introduction to this newsletter that paid respect to all of the lists and advice and guidance I have been given before I arrived in Japan and increasingly since I have been here. An acknowledgement of the old friends that led me where I needed to go to begin with and the new friends that showed me places I would never have known existed. To the chefs from all over the world who have sent me their coveted lists full of advice and wildly accurate reviews. It was only through having an abundance of information was I able to take the steps to even begin, in my small way, to understand this city and I fucking love it. Thank you1.
Tokyo is a wonderland. There is no question of that. A sprawling mass of chaotic brilliance steeped in the dense sweet sweat of food, music, art, culture, architecture, sex and, while often hidden2, the very extremes of all of the above. As a result it is nearly impossible to spend time somewhere like Tokyo and not have an experience that is revelatory or life changing or at the very least really really excellent and interesting3. In that way it isn't like London or Paris or Berlin, or Sydney or Melbourne or New York45. There isn’t a go to list that someone can point to that affords a local or a tourist alike to have the best possible experience. Sure, there are places you should visit and if you didn't visit you would be a fool6 and there are things that are culturally important and sites that are breathtakingly beautiful, yes, but to say that there It is possible to compile a list for Tokyo that spans the depth of a unique and defined experience, a list that could surpass all other lists - it is just impossible.
There is just too much to do. There is too much to eat, too much to see, too much stimulus to be taken enchanted by, too many places to discover, too many records to be listened to, too many dance floors to be danced on, too many shrines to be walked, too many placed to go shopping7.
There are just too many restaurants or eateries and street food vendors for anyone with any sense of legitimacy to say that it is possible to know or even have time to experience the very best of the very best of the very best. There is just too much to do and there is far too much undiscovered or just opened or just closed for a definitive list to be cast without missing at least something.
While the natural instinct of how this piece of writing would normally flow is that I would convince you a perfect list wasn’t possible and then huzzah, I would surprise you with a perfect list of activities and restaurants for Tokyo that will have you chomping at the bit to get over here and see just how right - or admittedly wrong - I was.
On the contrary. This newsletter will tell you about the places I have been that I have enjoyed and it will certainly put a hard sell on a couple of things I think are worth the Tokyo trip alone but the real goal of this newsletter is to try to convince you that following peoples advice is a starting point in Tokyo. Read what they offer you, listen to what they say and certainly, if you have people - people you trust8 - visit somewhere they recommend. Not because it will be the only place to eat, no. Do it so that you have a measure of what is good and as a result what sort of spiritual experience Tokyo can offer in its dining scene.
Tokyo is such that any place you walk into to eat could offer you a life changing experience. The issue isn't that there is a shortage of good places to eat and drink, the issue - and quite frankly, magic of the place - is that as a traveller, a tourist or a local, there is unlimited room to choose your own adventure in this city.
You get to make mistakes and discover hidden gems and get lost in such a way that every day you will want to add to the lists that have already been shared with you. Even if it is as simple as making sure to leave room to make mistakes and making sure you only eat late night food at places packed full of other people - even if that ends up being a local burger joint. The key is to adventure, the key is to know and trust that the only way to really fall in the love with the city is to adventure. Trust the people you see inside, trust the lines, trust yourself. If something draws you in, go. If something feels right, eat it. If something seems a little challenging and overwhelming, lean in even just for a minute.
Below is a list of the things I have done so far that I believe are absolutely worth visiting or doing if you are ever in town. They are things that I will be doing first when I come to visit again. The ones that made the list, for me have been instrumental in how I have developed an almost terrifyingly fast sense of affection for this city. And no, this is not just a result of my love of egg sandwiches, although eating as many as possible does sit very high on the list of things that are excellent to do in Tokyo.
Things I have done that I would recommend: In no particular order
Savoy Pizza, The Marinara
This is not a new name on anyones list. In fact, if someone sends you a list for Tokyo that does not include Savoy pizza on it put that list in the bin9.
This isn’t just a pizza. The Marinara is a spiritual experience. Doubt as much as you like but even flicking through their instagram it is as close to a who’s who of modern pizza making from the around the world, as you could come to find. The best pizziolas in the world come to eat here. They come to be challenged, they come to be humbled. This pizza will fuck you up. Yes, gluten in the devil for some but keep in mind for others, dairy is the devil and the marinara sits atop the gates of heaven welcoming into a paradise so unexpected in Tokyo.
When I was at University in Italy we spent a lot of time travelling the country visiting the pizza restaurants that were considered to be not only the best in Italy but some the best in the world. Those pizzas were all very good, some were life changing. It was a dream to have experienced.
The marinara at Savoy is spiritual. It is the best pie I have ever eaten. I would eat it every day for the rest of my life.
Again, I reiterate, if you are offered advice about Tokyo that does not include Savoy it is very important to reconsider the status of the friendship with that person.
Hosokawa, Soba Noodles
It may seem like a long way to go for a lunch10 after you taste the food you will understand. There are few people in Japan still making soba noodles in such a traditional way with such a traditional and dedicated approach to the quality, texture, practice and ritual of eating them.
Out where the Sumo train is a tiny restaurant steeped in history. Go for a walk around the streets surrounding and admire the architecture or drop into the Hokusai museum11. Whatever you do just go and eat.
If it is summer order the Soba with oysters in broth. If that isn’t available eat what I ate - cold soba on bamboo with tempura eel and tempura vegetables served with a broth at the end of the meal.
The elegance and technical capacity of the execution of such a simple dish filled me with a deep excitement that was then set with a very solid and tough to shake grief for the fact that I would never be able to even attempt to recreate the beauty of the lunch.
Yuji, Short Rib, Beef Heart, Whiskey Soda
If you can sit outside and watch the manic beauty of the streets. Order whiskey soda along with Koji aged short rib and beef heart sashimi. Everything is very very good but these two dishes were mind bending. Coals are heated up in front of you and placed on a metal tray with a mud brick yakitori for the table. It is theatre, sure, but it is good theatre. It is tiny and bootleg and insistent on showcasing the magic of offal.
Grandpas, Whiskey & Guiness & Cigarettes & Vinyl
Go downstairs and smoke too many cigarettes in this tiny bar that plays vinyl track to track, perfectly curated to the vibe of the space depending on how the people are moving and what is being discussed. Drink whiskey and Guinness and set in. When I first arrived it was 11.30pm, the first track spun was Chris Isaak Wicked Games. The two hours that followed went back to back with music about heartbreak and lost love. Again, drink cigarettes, drink whiskey, some cigarettes.
Convenience Stores, Egg Sandwich
You know. Eat them all. Don’t be scared. In fact don’t be scared of convenience store food - this is already well accepted and understood though. I love the egg sandwiches.
Gyuukatsu Motomura, Beef Katsu
Go agains the grain, get the beef katsu. Aged wagyu or dry aged sirloin served as a fillet or minced. Order the mixed plate. Eat all of the cabbage because it is good for you and then order more of the beef katsu. There is such a beauty to this restaurant, underground, tiny, fast, cheap. Don’t be fooled by pork katsu unless you are going somewhere like Butagami12 - instead stick close with this lit beef katsu.
Isetan Food Court
Go after 7 and explore. At 7.30pm everything goes on sale. It is pandemonium. Eat as much as possible. Everything is excellent. It is terrifyingly big and terrifyingly stimulating. Go with your gut. Do not be afraid. Buy anything big or small just buy it. Eat it. It’s perfect for an easy dinner, a quick breakfast or a clean lunch. Think of it like the Harrods food court. Sure, it isn’t a traditional food court in the way in which you would imagine Japan to offer but believe you me, it is also exactly the kind of food court you would think Japan would offer.
Things to Avoid
‘Authenticity’
In my opinion avoid anything that anyone you know defines as ‘authentic’ - Tokyo is a city of deep cultural adaptation. As one friend who lived there for 10 years told me, it is a cultural waste land, it isn't Japan. It is people from all over japan and all over the world coming to a city to make money or do something of their own. So this idea of an authentically ‘Japanese’ experience in Tokyo that throws images of ritual and connection and conservatism in practice is a bit of a red herring. The things that are authentic for Tokyo are authentic for this crazy city, not for Japan. If you are in search of an authentic Japanese experience - get outside, go to Osaka, go to Kyoto, get to Hiroshima, or run off to the mountains. Just let Tokyo be Tokyo in all its wild glory.
McDonalds
The awful squid ball not squid ball things they try to pass off as squid balls in Tokyo. Go to Kyoto instead.
While my notes insisted I write an introduction that was something like this what I came to realise after reading what I had written is that this was the introduction I was looking for…
There goes the saying the nail that sticks out gets hammered down - which often means even any expression of non conservative behaviour or desire is frowned upon - the extremes are really - at least to the broader Japanese society - definitely frowned upon.
Assuming, of course you take some steps outside of the hotel.
I have excluded LA from this list due to the vastness of the city sprawl and the distinct and somewhat unapproachable food scene. That thing of, if you don't know you will never sort of beast.
All of which I have lists that run deep and could easily define a drop in be it a day, a week, a month. Any requests, for anyone who actually reads the footnotes, just ask…
The top of the list would be Savoy, the pizza joint with the best marinara in the world.
Now, given that this newsletter is predominantly one about food and the like, I will pull it back in BUT the shopping in Tokyo is out of control and a whole new beast in terms of scope and style and excitement.
Because a dud recommendation is a wasted meal and a wasted meal tantamount to betrayal.
And tell them it might be time to reassess the status of the friendship… It might be time to put them in the bin.
Go at lunch, they don’t take reservations for lunch. Just go and have some walk in fun.
Five stars, would return.
Which has on average ten different rare breeds to choose from any given night… Just a bit far for me.
Daniel has a Masters in Food Culture from The University of Gastronomic Science in Pollenzo, Italy. He is a writer, a chef, and a recovering restaurateur.